Sit 'n Go Poker Strategy and Training

2009-11-18T22:24:00.018-06:00

Have you been losing money playing poker online? Are you suffering too many bad beats and can't figure out why? Or maybe you are ready to make the move from play money to real money? If you answered yes to any of these, this site is for you!

My name is Thomas Kennedy and I am an online sit 'n go poker specialist. Like many, I started playing poker online in 2003, shortly after watching Chris Moneymaker win the WSOP Main Event. I understood the basics and had some early success playing Limit Texas Hold'em. However, each attempt at moving to No-limit Texas Hold'em was unsuccessful; I went broke numerous times trying to learn the game.

Extremely frustrated, I took about 6 months off to study the game. I read numerous books and spent hours on the play money tables fine tuning my approach. Over time I acquired the knowledge and best practices necessary to build a real money bankroll playing poker online. This site will teach you how to do the same.

Through a series of free lessons I will show you how to finish in the money playing No-Limit Texas Hold'em "sit 'n go" tournaments. You will learn the following strategies:

How to effectively manage your bankroll.
EV and M-Zone fundamentals.
Which hands you should play and why.
How to change your play during the early, middle, and late stages.
How to use tools to simplify decisions and give you an edge.
Which sites are the best to play and why.
How to profile your opponents.
How to read hands (putting players on a hand).
The proper situations to bluff and steal.
Changes you need to make at the higher levels.

By learning and applying the sit and go strategies that I will teach you in the upcoming lessons, I have become a winning poker player. I hope they will do the same for you.

Go To Course Outline

Earn $50 Now!

2009-11-17T09:47:00.018-06:00

In my sit n go poker training I teach how to make money playing poker online starting with just $50. Well, what if you don't have an extra $50 sitting around? Or what if you aren't really interested in poker and just want to make a quick $50? I can help you with that! Here's the deal...

I will pay you $50 (via Paypal) within

one business day of successfully completing

the steps that I outline below.

That's right! $50 within one business day of completing the steps. No strings attached. Follow the steps and earn a quick $50. You can use it for poker or you can use it for anything else you want. That's up to you. How can I do this?

Simple. By following the instructions, I get paid $60 from the advertisers for bringing you to the site. In exchange, I will pay you $50 for your time. I make $10 off of you and you make $50 off of me. A beautiful thing!

Before starting the process, make sure you read ALL the instruction so that you don't make any mistakes. If you do not follow the instructions correctly and completely, I won't get my $60 and you won't get your $50. If you have any questions before you start, just send me an email me. I try to respond to all email messages within 1 business day.

OK, here we go.

INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1: Set up a PayPal.com account. You don't need a business account; a personal account will do just fine. Note, if you already have a paypal.com account, you can skip this step!

Step 2: Click on this link: http://gaming.freefactor.com/?id=25662
That link will take you to the site to join as my referral. When you arrive at the site the text above the login box at the bottom of the page should say "You are being referred by user 25662." If it doesn't, then you need to clear your cookies and click on the link again. Important--unless you complete these steps correctly, I won't get my $60 and you won't get your $50!!!

When you get to the site you will be prompted to Choose Your Free Gift! Don't worry about that right now because that is for when you start referring people to the site (doing exactly what I am doing), and you can always change it later if you start doing that. It is important that you do not click any other links on the site at this point, but go straight to the sign up process at the bottom of the page.

Step 3: Scroll down to the bottom of the page and enter your PayPal email address in the E-mail Address field in the form at the bottom of the page, then click Next Step.

Step 4: On the page that appears next, complete the information by filling in ALL the blanks with your REAL personal information.

Step 5: Click the "I agree to the Terms and Conditions" check box, then click Next Step. Note: This box does not appear until you have completed the steps above.

Step 6: Click on the Offers tab and browse the offers. Find some that interest you, then click on them and complete enough of them to have 100 credits credit.

That's it! When one hundred credits worth of offers have credited, your name and email will turn green in my statistics page for that site. Then once a day I will pay everyone that turned green $50 to their PayPal account.

But keep reading... here's some more tips for working with the site:

ADDITIONAL TIPS

Tip 1: When you get to the confirmation page or final page of the sign up process for each offer, wait a few seconds for background processes to work before you move away from that page. I usually print this page to remember what offers I joined. You will also get a confirmation email; make sure you save that email. Look in your SPAM folder if for some reason you don't get it.

Tip 2: Depending on what offers you choose, the credit for them may show up instantly or it may take a few minutes to a few hours or even days. The approximate credit time is listed in the offer description. Even offers advertised as instant credit can sometimes take 10 minutes to 2 hours to show up as credit in the site.

Tip 3: If you go to your stats page within the site, you can see your referral link. If you have a friend that wants to join with that link, and do the same thing that you just did, then you will qualify for the $60 referral prize, and will be able to pay your friend whatever you agree on - as I agreed to pay you $50. About half of the prize amount is typical.

OK, let's get started. If you already have a PayPal.com account, click the following link to start the process.

http://gaming.freefactor.com/?id=25662

Remember, follow the instructions exactly (so I get my $60 and you will in turn get your $50). If you have any questions, email me. After you have completed the process, remember to return to the SitNGoTraining.com site to learn how to make money playing sit n go poker tournaments online!

Purchase Basic Strategy

2007-06-15T20:15:00.027-05:00

I continue to receive great feedback about the basic training provided on SitNGoTraining.com. I have also received numerous requests for a downloadable and printable version of the basic training. As a result, I have made it available for a small, one time fee of $9.95. The PDF includes the following lessons:

Sit 'n Go Strategy Basics

Lesson 1: Bankroll Management
Lesson 2: Selecting the "Best" Sit 'n Go's.
Lesson 3: EV and M-Zone Foundation
Lesson 4: Calculating Outs and Odds

Applying Sit 'n Go Strategy Basics

Lesson 5: Pre-Flop Play
Lesson 6: Post-Flop Play
Lesson 7: On The Bubble Play
Lesson 8: In The Money Play
Lesson 9: Heads-Up Play

I have provided a "But Now" button below that you can use to issue payment through a credit card or through a PayPal account. Within a few minutes of completing your purchase you will receive an email with a link to the download site and a login ID (your email) and password. Note: The PDF version of the Basic Training is only available in English.

If you have any problems accessing the file, please notify support@sitngotraining.com. We will return all messages within one business day.

Basics Of Texas Hold'em

2007-05-30T17:32:00.000-05:00

For those of you that are new to Texas Hold'em, I recommend watching this brief overview by Phil Gordon.

Purchase Phil Gordon's Final Table Poker DVD

Return to Course Outline

Sit 'n Go Poker Strategy Course Outline

2007-04-30T22:06:00.071-05:00

This course will teach you the strategies necessary to make money playing sit 'n go poker tournaments online. However, this course assumes you already know the basics of playing Texas Hold'em. If that is not the case, I recommend you study Winning Low-Limit Hold'em by Lee Jones and watch the brief overview by Phil Gordon before proceeding with this course. When you are ready, scroll down and begin with Lesson 1.

Would you prefer a downloadable and printable version of the Basic Training (Lessons 1 through 9)? If so, click here!

COURSE OUTLINE

Basic Sit 'n Go Strategy

Applying Basic Sit 'n Go Strategy

Advanced Sit 'n Go Strategy

When are the advanced lessons coming? Don't worry, I am working on writing them. I will post an update on my mailing list once I release the next chapter!

Lesson 10: Profiling Players
Lesson 11: Identifing Playing Styles
Lesson 12: Active Observation
Lesson 13: Reading Players' Hands
Lesson 14: Implied Odds
Lesson 15: ICM and Push/Fold
Lesson 16: Datamining Tools and Techniques

Applying Advanced Sit 'n Go Strategy

Lesson 17: Deviating From Basic Strategy
Lesson 18: Bluffing / Stealing
Lesson 19: Short-Stack Play
Lesson 20: Revisiting The Bubble
Lesson 21: Multi-Tabling
Lesson 22: Moving to Higher Stakes

Recommended Reading

Recommended Tools

Note: If you with to receive notification when new lessons are posted, you are welcome to join my mailing list.

Lesson 1: Bankroll Management (1)

2007-04-28T15:31:00.003-05:00

Before getting into the fundamental strategies for playing sit 'n go tournament poker, it is essential to understand the key problems associated with bankroll management, and how to solve these problems.

THE PROBLEMS

Problem 1: Playing beyond your means.

For some people, money isn't an issue. They can play any way they want and if they lose their deposit, they just keep depositing more money. That is great if you can afford it and you view poker as purely entertainment. For the rest of us, this can be an expensive proposition, and ultimately we want poker to be a profitable endevor. I will show you how to start with a minimum deposit and build a bankroll so you never have to deposit money again.

Problem 2: Moving up too quickly.

As you build your bankroll you will be tempted to move up to higher stakes. You might be thinking, I can build my bankroll faster if I play at higher stakes. However, when you move to higher stakes you play against better players, and they will take your bankroll unless you have developed the skills necessary to compete at the higher levels. I will show you how to move up gradually and protect your hard-earned bankroll while you develop the skills necessary for the higher limits.

Problem 3: Going on Tilt / Bad Luck.

We have all experienced bad beats. You get your money in with the best hand and some "fish" sucks out on you. We have also had long runs of bad luck, where the cards just don't seem to work--you continuously miss the flop and your draws do not come. This can be very frustrating and can negatively affect your decision-making process, setting you up for multiple finishes short of the money. I will show you a simple rule that you can use to stop the downward spiral.

In the next section I will discuss how to solve these problems.

Go to Bankroll Management 2

Lesson 1: Bankroll Management (2)

2007-04-26T15:01:00.010-05:00

In Bankroll Management (1) I discussed three problems associated with bankroll management:

Problem 1: Playing beyond your means.
Problem 2: Moving up too quickly.
Problem 3: Going on Tilt / Bad Luck.

Now I will outline the bankroll rules that I strictly follow to address these problems.

THE BANKROLL RULES

Rule 1: Deposit a maximum of $50 per month.

To start building your bankroll you must first develop respect for your money. The best way to create respect for your money is to apply a penalty for losing your initial deposit. Do this by limiting the frequency of your deposits. Start with a deposit of $50 and only allow yourself to redeposit once per month. If you lose your deposit, move to the play money tables until the next month. However, by applying Solution 2 in addition to the playing strategies I will teach you in the lessons to come, you might never need to deposit money again!

Rule 2: Apply the 5% and 25x rules.

The 5% rule is simply this: do not commit more than 5% of your bankroll to any one sit 'n go buy-in. By limiting your buy-in to 5% of your bankroll, you will limit your losses for any one event. In addition, as you build your bankroll, this rule will allow you to move up in stakes. However, if you begin to lose money at the higher stakes, the 5% rule will also "force" you to move back down. The one exception to this rule--you can always play at the $2 level, regardless of your bankroll. In addition, do not move up to the next level until your bankroll is at least 25x the buy-in. By using the 25x guideline you will give yourself a few shots at winning at the next level before the 5% rule forces you to move back down.

For example, if your initial deposit is $50, you should start by playing the $2 sit 'n go tournaments. Stay at the $2 level until you grow your bankroll to 25x the next level buy-in. So if the next buy-in is $5, do not move to the $5 level until you have grown your bankroll to $125. I realize that 5% of $125 is more than the $5 entry fee; you want to give yourself a little buffer to start winning at the next level. However, if you have problems winning at the new level, you must apply the 5% rule and drop down to a lower level if your bankroll drops below $100. By applying the 5% and 25x rules you will ensure you are always playing at a level appropriate for your bankroll.
Important Note: The 25x rule works great when you are starting out at the lower limits. However, once you build you bankroll and start playing at higher limits, say $20 and above, or start playing multiple tables, I recommend a larger bankroll to protect against downswings. Consider staying at the $20 level until you have 50x the next buy-in.

Rule 3: If you lose 3 times, quite for the day.

To avoid going on tilt due to bad beats or a run of bad cards, the solution is simple--stop playing! If you lose 3 times in a row, quit for the day. By quitting, you will stop the trend (at least for that day!). The next day when you start playing again, your frustration will have lifted and you can approach the game with a clear mind. By applying the strategies outlined in the following lessons, it will be unusual that you will experience this issue two days in a row. But if that does happen, you might want to take a few days away from the game. Going on tilt can destroy your bankroll. It is better to sit out for a few days than to give back the profit that you have so carefully earned.

Rule 4: Withdraw 10% Per Week

Once you build your bankroll to over $1500, it is time to start rewarding yourself for your efforts. I strongly recommend that you withdraw 10% of your total bankroll every week. That might seem like a lot but it only represents two buy-ins (if you are following the rules above!). Withdrawing money does two things. First, it protects the money (you can't lose what isn't in your online account). But more importantly, it rewards you for your hard work.

CONCLUSION

As I mentioned in my introduction, I went broke numerous times trying to learn the game. As I look back on my failures, each time can be attributed to breaking one or more of the rules outlined above. However, I have not gone broke since I adopted the rules. Obviously I can not force you to apply these rules--I can only encourage you to adopt and apply them to your bankroll. Here they are again:

Deposit a maximum of $50 per month.
Apply the 5% and 25x rules (50x at higher stakes).
If you lose 3 times, quit for the day.
Withdraw 10% per week.

Although critical, there is more to building a successful bankroll than effective bankroll management. You must also learn and apply the strategies that will set you up to WIN. I will begin outlining the strategies in the next lesson.

Would you prefer a downloadable and printable version of the Basic Training (Lessons 1 through 9)? If so, click here!

Return to Course Outline

Lesson 2: Selecting the "Best" Sit 'n Go's

2007-04-24T11:28:00.003-05:00

Note: in 2011 the US Federal Government has blocked US players from the sites mentioned below. However, this information is still applicable to non-US players. I am researching the best solution for US players and will update this page once I've completed.

How do you measure sit 'n go poker tournaments and determine which is the best? What makes one sit 'n go better than another. Well, that depends on what you are trying to achieve through playing sit 'n go tournaments. If your goal is to play with your buddies from your regular home game, playing at the same site during the same sit 'n go is the "best" for you. If you love to play the lottery, than picking sit 'n go’s that are long shot wins might be “best” for you. However, if your goal is to use skill and patience to make money playing poker online, there is one criteria that overrides everything else—a slow blind structure.

Slow Blind Structure
Sit 'n go poker is different than cash games in that the blinds increase on a scheduled basis. The amount and duration of the blind increase is referred to as the blind structure.

In the upcoming strategy lessons I will teach a tight and aggressive playing style. A tight style is one in which a player primarily selects premium pre-flop starting hands. However, barring the occasional rush, these premium starting hands do not come along that often. In order to have ample time to get the good premium starting hands you must select sit 'n go tournaments with a slow blind structure. Slow blind structures favor the skilled player while fast blind structures favor luck over skill. This does not mean that you cannot play sit 'n go’s with fast blind structures (Turbo events); however, these fast events require a different playing strategy than is outlined in these lessons.

High Volume
Another important consideration is the number of people playing at each site. If the site has a low volume of players, you might have to wait a considerable amount of time for a sit 'n go tournament to fill up and start. So you want to select a site with a high volume of players. This is particularly important when you move up to the higher buy-in levels where the player pool is much smaller. In addition, sites that accommodate players from the US typically have higher volume than those that do not.

The Verdict
Of the poker sites that accept US players, Full Tilt and Poker Stars have the best blind structure and the most volume. Full Tilt has a slightly slower blind structure than Poker Stars and is therefore considered the best structure for sit 'n go's. Poker Stars is currently the largest site and is considered the highest volume for sit 'n go's. You will do fine picking either or both sites.

Sign-up Bonuses
Both Full Tilt and Poker Stars offer sign-up bonuses. A sign-up bonus is an incentive offered by the site to encourage you to open an account with them. Typically the site will match your initial deposit up to a certain amount and release the matched amount in increments as you play on their site. Only sign up with sites offering a 100% bonus, otherwise you are leaving money on the table. If you do not have an account at Full Tilt or Poker Stars I have included links below will get you the sign-up bonus.

Full Tilt Poker:
Best Structure
for Sit 'n Go's

Poker Stars:
Highest Volume
for Sit 'n Go's
Once you have an account set up, you are ready to learn and apply the winning strategies for sit 'n go tournaments. During the next lesson we will discuss EV and M-Zone and why these two measurements are important to a winning sit 'n go tournament strategy.

See my blog comments for a comparison between the Full Tilt and PokerStars interfaces.

Return to Course Outline

Lesson 3: EV and M-Zone Foundation

2007-04-22T18:11:00.005-05:00

To make money playing sit 'n go poker tournaments it will help if you understand a couple of key measurements--EV and M. What are EV and M and how do they help you become a winning sit 'n go player?

"EV" Defined

EV stands for "Expected Value" and is the average amount of big bets a starting hand is expected to win. In other words, EV is a number calculated and assigned to each starting hand based on the amount of money that hand will win at showdown. The numbers are calculated based on a sample of over 1 million hands played by average players. Starting hands with higher EV are stronger, and hands with low or negative EV are weaker.

In the downloadable and printable version of the Basic Stratety, I have provided a link to a Starting Hand Expected Value Chart for you to reference. The sample is a simplified version showing the average EV for each starting hand. However, the actual EV for each hand changes depending on the position you are in at the table and the number of players that are left in the tournament.

For example, if you have QcKc in first position at a full table, the EV will be lower than if you had the same cards on the button. I have also provided a chart that shows starting hand EV adjusted for position. However, this information can be difficult to use during a game. I use and recommend a tool called Tournament Indicator which automatically shows on-the-fly the actual EV of each hand adjusted for table position and number of players.

"M" Defined

I am not really sure M stands for anything, but I can tell you what it is. M is a measure of your chip stack divided by the total of the starting blinds and antes. For example, if the blinds are 50 and 100 with no ante (total starting pot is 150), and you currently have 1500 in chips, your M is 10.

(Chip Stack) / (Blinds + Antes) = M
(1500) / (50 + 100) = 10

Once you know your M you can quickly determine your M-Zone. M-Zone is a term popularized by Dan Harrington in his book Harrington on Hold'em, Volume II. There are 5 M-Zones:

Green Zone = Your M is 20 or more.
Yellow Zone = Your M is between 10 and 20.
Orange Zone = Your M is between 6 and 10.
Red Zone = Your M is between 1 and 5.
Dead Zone = Your M of 1 or lower.

You must keep track of your M and the M of each of your opponents. You can do this manually, or you can use the tool I referenced above, Tournament Indicator, which calculates and displays it for you. In the screen shot below you can see the EV for the starting hand of
QcKc is 0.67 and my current M is 13.3 putting me in the Yellow Zone.

In the lessons to follow I will teach you how to use EV and M to make solid decisions about which hands to play preflop, and how to play them.

Return to Course Outline

Lesson 4: Calculating Outs and Odds

2007-04-21T13:46:00.001-05:00

In Texas Hold'em, it is critical to be able to calculate your outs and your odds. First, a brief description:

Calculating Outs / Odds

Your "outs" are the number of cards left in the deck that will improve your hand. For an example, say you have an AK of hearts and the flop comes with 2 hearts and no pairs on board. You need one heart to make your flush. There are 13 hearts total in the deck. You have seen 4 of them (2 in your hand, and 2 on the board), so there are 9 hearts left in the deck. There are 52 cards total in the deck, you have seen 5 (your hand and the flop), so that leaves 47 cards. Of the 47 cards, 38 are not hearts and 9 are. So your odds of hitting a heart on the next card are 38:9, or approximately 4:1. To determine your odds of making your hand by the river, cut the odds in half (since you have two chances to hit). So your odds of making your flush by the river are approximately 2:1 (two to one).

Pot Odds

Pot odds is the ratio between the bet you must call compared to the size of the pot. So if the pot is currently $100 and you must call a $50 bet to see the next card, your odds are 100:50 or 2:1 (two to one).

Phil Gordon provides an easy way to calculate odds in the following video:

Purchase Phil Gordon's Final Table Poker DVD

Making Decisions

As a general rule, if your pot odds are greater than the odds of making your hand, you should call. If not, you should fold. You must get good at calculating your outs and odds as you will need this information during every hand.

To simplify the process, I use a tool called Tournament Indicator which calculates this information for me on the fly. This way I can focus my attention on the situation at the table instead of working on the math in my head. In the example below you are drawing to an inside straight draw--a 6 will give you the straight. Tournament Indicator shows you the odds of making your straight and your pot odds. Usually, if your pot odds are better than the odds of making your straight, you should call. Otherwise, you should fold. I will get into the exceptions in the Advanced Lessons to follow.

Return to Course Outline

Lesson 5: Pre-Flop Play

2007-04-20T10:09:00.003-05:00

The strategy that I am about to teach you is only intended for sit 'n go tournaments that meet the following criteria:

No limit Texas Hold'em (not fixed limit)
Normal speed (not turbo events)
Single table (not multiple tables)
9 or 10 players (not 6 player tables)

If you play a different type of poker, this strategy might not be the best. Why?

Single table sit 'n go's are different than any other type of poker in that they are about survival. Single table sit 'n go's are short enough (usually you are in the money within an hour) that you can sometimes make it into the money without playing a single hand! However, to get a shot at winning the tournament, it helps if you build your chip stack.

Problem 1--Playing Too Many Hands

Pre-flop play is the easiest part of sit 'n go poker tournaments to master. However, most low-limit players get it wrong! In a nutshell, the #1 reason why players get poor results in sit 'n go's is because they play too many hands, causing them to get short-stacked early in the tournament, or giving back chips that they were able to accumulate.

Many players think that when the blinds are small (early in the tournament) they should play many hands in the hopes of doubling up early. That thinking is correct for multi-table tournaments where you must accumulate chips to last the longer duration of those types of tournaments. However, it is incorrect for single table tournaments. Again, single table tournaments are about survival... your goal is to last long enough to make it into the money.

Problem 2--Not Adjusting Play Based on Stack Size

In addition to playing too many hands, losing players make one additional pre-flop mistake. They do not adjust their play correctly according to their stack size.

When losing players have large chip stacks they play many more hands. In addition, when their stacks get small, they tighten up and only play premium hands. If you want to be a winning sit 'n go player you must do the opposite of those who are losing!

Again, it is about survival. When your stack is larger you want to play fewer hands. Your goal is to wait out the bad players while they knock themselves out so you can cruse into the money. However, if you take a couple of bad beats or if the flops do not work out for you and your chip stack is reduced, you must open up your game (play more hands) to accumulate the chips needed to get you to the money.

Hopefully this seems logical to you (it doesn't to the losing players!!). So the key questions now are... what hands do I play and what changes do I need to make to my hand selection in response to the changes in my stack size?

Go To Pre-Flop Play (2)

Lesson 5: Pre-Flop Play (2)

2007-04-18T10:45:00.013-05:00

The Winning Pre-Flop Strategy!

As we discussed previously, losing players play too many hands. And when they get low on chips, they tighten up and don't play enough hands. Again, single table sit 'n go's are about survival... about staying in the game long enough to make it into the money. In order to do so you must play opposite of the losing players.

So what hands should you play preflop? OK, here it is. Hand selection should be based on the following two measurements:

The EV of the hand.
The M of your stack.

If you haven't read the section on EV and M-Zones, please do so now.

To determine which hands to play preflop, follow this simple guide:

If (EV x 100) > M, raise! Otherwise, fold.

Note: This starting hand guide assumes you are first to enter the pot. However, realize that this guide is just that... a guide. Poker is very situational. There will be times when you can and should deviate from the guide. We will cover those situations in the advanced lessons.

OK, to explain what the formula means, using the KQ example from previous posts, my EV for KQ of clubs is 0.67 and my M is 13.3.

0.67 x 100 = 67

67 (EV x 100) is greater than 13.3 (my M score), therefore raise!

In this example if my M score was over 67, I would fold KQ in this position. Again, my goal is survival. If I do not have to play a hand, I won't. I'd rather sit on a nice chip lead than give up chips when I don't have to. You should follow the starting hand guide until you have reached the money, at which point the strategy changes (we will cover that in a later lesson).

I have provided a link to a Starting Hand Expected Value Chart in the downloadable and printable version of the Basic Strategy for you to reference when you play. The chart represents the average EV for each hand but is not adjusted for position. KQ of clubs has a higher EV in late position than in early position. So sometimes it might be correct to play KQ from the button but not from the blinds or middle position. I use a tool called Tournament Indicator which automatically shows me the EV of each hand, adjusted for position, and my current M score. So I can see at a glance whether or not a starting hand meets the criteria.
Now, we must address one more question. How much do I raise?

Go to Pre-Flop Play (3)

Lesson 5: Pre-Flop Play (3)

2007-04-17T11:14:00.006-05:00

Raise Based on M-Zone

Now that you know which hands to play pre-flop, we must determine how much to raise. Online poker is different than live poker in that players call larger raises. With your premium starting hands you do not want many callers to see the flop with you. So you want to raise enough to reduce the field while still protecting your chip stack. Therefore, your raise amount should be based on the size of your stack compared to the starting pot--your M-Zone. Here's the guidelines:

Green Zone = Raise 5x the big blind.
Yellow Zone = Raise 4x the big blind.
Orange Zone = If M is greater than 7, raise 3x the big blind. If M is lower than 7, push all-in.
Red Zone = Push all-in.
Dead Zone = Well, not much you can do here!

This preflop raising strategy is intended for those who have less experience with sit 'n go's or poker in general. In the advanced lessons I will teach you how to read your opponents and then modify your play based on the additional information that is available at the table. Until then, this preflop strategy is intended to keep you out of trouble by simplifying your post-flop decisions. In addition, these guidelines assume you are the first to enter the pot. We will cover other scenarios in a bit. In a nutshell, the larger your M, the more you want to raise. The smaller your M, the more conservative you want to be with your raises.

Now, pay close attention to the Orange and Red zones. When you get down to an M of 7 or less, your only option is to push all your chips into the middle. Do not try to limp in or put in a small raise. Dan Harrington teaches in his book Harrington on Hold'em, Volume II that when you push all-in you have two ways to win the pot:

Everyone folds and you win the blinds and antes.
You get a caller and your hand holds up.

When your M is 7 or less, you do not have enough chips to play after the flop. You can not bluff or steal the pot because the amount of chips you have left after you enter the pot will not be large enough to push anyone out after the flop. So you must get all your chips in before the flop and hope that everyone folds. Do not break this rule. If you are the first to act and your (EV x 100) is greater than your M score, PUSH ALL IN!

Now, we still need to address the situation when someone limps (just calls the big blind amount) or raises in front of you. If someone limps, apply the same guidelines. If someone raises in front of you, you need more information to determine the correct move. For now, if you have AA or KK, raise the size of the pot. Other starting hands require more information for correct strategy. We will cover this in the lesson on Player Profiling.

Following this pre-flop strategy alone can improve your sit 'n go results. However, proper post-flop play is also critical to consistently getting into the money. We will cover that next.

Would you prefer a downloadable and printable version of the Basic Training (Lessons 1 through 9)? If so, click here!

Return to Course Outline

Lesson 6: Post-Flop Play

2007-04-15T10:05:00.005-05:00

Now that we have addressed pre-flop strategy, we will shift attention to post-flop play. However, before going forward I want to point out one thing... post-flop play is VERY situational. I am going to try to outline general rules that you can use to guide your post-flop play. But the key to successful post-flop play is combining these general rules with the player profiling and reading skills that I will cover in a later lesson. For now I will cover three areas in this lesson:

Reading the board--evaluating the strength of your hand.
Texture of the flop--putting your opponent on a potential draw.
Determine your response--bet sizing in relation to your strength and your opponents possible holding.

Reading the Board
As discussed in the pre-flop lesson, the following are general guidelines to use during post-flop play. I will outline the situations that are right to deviate from the basic strategy in a future lesson. But for now, follow this strategy.
Since single table sit 'n go's are all about survival, the proper post-flop strategy is focused on the initial flop. You must quickly decide whether the flop is appropriate for you to continue with the hand. If it is, your attention shifts to determining bet sizes. If it isn't, the key is the get out of the hand without risking additional chips. I use a simple evaluation to determine the FIT of the flop. FIT is an acronym for the following and is used to evaluate the quality of your hand at the flop:

F = Fantastic--you flop a set or better.
I = Interesting--you flop top pair with good kicker, two pair, trips, or 4 cards to a straight or flush draw.
T = Titanic--you flop top pair with bad kicker, 2nd or 3rd pair, or 3 cards to a straight or flush draw.

Fantastic flops are flops that you should be aggressive with your betting. The goal is to build the pot as large as possible to earn value for your solid hand.
Interesting flops need to be approached with more caution. These are medium strength hands that are at risk of being beaten, but also have the potential to improve. This is really the make or break area of post flop play. It is really easy to make the right decisions when you flop the nut flush but when you flop 4 cards to a queen high flush, it gets more interesting. Generally speaking you want to keep the pot small until your hand improves to the "fantastic" level. Then, get aggressive and build that pot.
Titanic flops are flops that look good to many players but have the potential to sink you! Typically you should check and fold these hands if you experience any betting, especially with multiple players in the pot. Again, your goal is survival. You do not want to risk your chips on weak hands that can knock you out of the tournament.

Next: Texture Of The Flop

Lesson 6: Texture Of The Flop

2007-04-14T10:31:00.003-05:00

Once you have determined the FIT of the flop you must evaluate the flop texture. Evaluating the texture is key to understanding the potential strength of your opponent's hand. The texture of the flop generally fits into three categories:

Coordinated Flop--A coordinated flop is any flop that make a straight, flush, or full house posssible on the flop.

Semi-Coordinated Flop--A semi-coordinated flop is any flop that meets one or more of the following criteria:

The flop contains two cards ten or higher. Since most players will play cards ten or higher, the likelyhood that this flop hit your opponent's hand increases.
The flop contains two cards within one gap of each other. For example, if the flop contains a 98 or a 97, this makes straight draws more probable.
The flop contains two cards of the same suite. This one is the easiest to see--flush draws are a concern here.

Uncoordinated Flop--An uncoordinated flop is any flop that does not meet any of the above criteria. For example, a flop of Q♥ 7♦ 3♣ is an uncoordinated flop. There is only one card ten or over, no cards within 1 gap of each others, and no matching suits. These are the flops you want to see, especially when you think you are ahead in the hand.
You will also run into situations where the flop meets the criteria for a semi-coordinated flop but is still low risk like an uncoordinated flop. For example, if the flop comes 8♥ 7♦ 2♣, this flop meets the criteria of a semi-coordinated flop. But if you are up against a tight player who typically plays face cards and big pairs (more on this in player profiling), it is unlikely they hit this flop. So you can play it like an uncoordinated flop. However, if you are playing with a loose player (someone who plays many starting hands), this is the type of flop that is very dangerous against that type of player. So proceed as a semi-coordinated flop.
Examples of Flops:
Q♥ K♦ 3♦ This flop meets all three criteria for a semi-coordinated.
Q♥ K♦ 3♣ This flop meets two of the semi-coordinated flop criteria.
A♥ 7♦ 3♣ This flop is deceptive, but meets the 1-gap straight criteria.
Q♥ K♥ T♥ Obviously a very dangerous coordinated flop.
8♥ 7♦ 7♣ Also coordinated but less likely to have hit a "tight" player.

Next: Determining Your Response

Lesson 6: Determining Your Response

2007-04-12T11:55:00.004-05:00

Now that you know the FIT of your hand and the texture of the flop, you can determine the action you want to take in response. Here are the general guidelines.

If you have a fantastic hand on a coordinated flop (assuming you have flopped the straight, flush, or full house), check and hope someone bets into you. If no one bets on the flop, put in a half-pot bet on the turn.
If you have a fantastic hand on a semi-coordinated flop, bet the size of the pot. In this example, the likelihood that your opponent is on a draw increases, so you want to bet large enough that it is mathematically incorrect for them to call. We will cover this more in the player profiling section, but for now, you will still get players that incorrectly call with straight draws and flush draws, but in the long term they will lose money and you will profit. So make the bet large and make them pay to chase their draw. The one exception is when you flop the best hand, like a straight with no flush cards on board, or an ace high flush (or even a better hand!), you want to encourage action, so bet half the pot and hope for a call. Many players will check in this situation in the hopes that someone will bluff at the pot. Generally speaking just bet your hand for value. If you start checking your big hands and betting your draws, an observant player will pick up on this and respond accordingly. If you always bet, it is much harder for them to put you on a hand. We will cover the situations in which to deviate from this in the player profiling section.

If you have a fantastic hand on an uncoordinated flop, bet about half the pot. An important point here is that many play too aggressively in this situation because they fear someone will draw out on them. You want to encourage your opponents to draw to a weaker hand. Betting larger amounts might scare them out of the pot.
If you have an interesting hand on a coordinated flop, bet about half the pot to try to win it right there. If you get resistance (someone calls or raises), check and fold further streets unless your hand improves.
If you have an interesting hand on a semi-coordinated flop and you are first to act after the flop (nobody has placed a bet yet), you should usually bet for value. If you have top pair or two pair, you probably have the best hand but your hand is at risk. You do not want to let your opponents get a free look at the next card. Do the same thing in the case of a drawing hand. For example, if you flop 4 cards to a flush, bet out half the pot if you are first to act. Why? If the flop is such that you would call a half pot bet to draw to your hand, it is better for you to put in the bet first--by doing so your opponents might fold the hand. If they call the bet and you miss your draw on the turn, it is probably better to check and see what you opponent does next. We will cover what to do when someone bets into you on the flop or turn shortly.

If you have an interesting hand on an uncoordinated flop, simply bet half the pot for value. If your hand improves on the turn, great--keep betting for value. If the board coordinates on the turn but your hand doesn't improve, follow the steps above for interesting/coordinated. (Note, if the board doesn't pair on the turn, watch for straight draws. On an unpaired board, there is always the possibility of someone holding 4 cards to a straight!).

For titanic hands, regardless of coordinated or uncoordinated flop, generally speaking just check and fold to any betting action. You want to wait until you have a strong hand to get your chips in. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, single table sit n' go's are about survival. Wait for a better opportunity. Again, there will be situations when you deviate from this strategy, but generally speaking, let the hand go. If the flop is checked around and your hand improves on the turn, great. Follow the guidelines above that matches the situation.

Hopefully you have seen a common thread in the guidelines above. You want to be aggressive after the flop by putting bets in when you have a good hand. The tight starting hand requirements that we covered in the pre-flop section in combination with the aggressive post-flop strategy outline here will make you a winning player. Now, we still have one more topic to cover--calling bets.

Next: Calling Post-Flop Bets

Lesson 6: Calling Post-Flop Bets

2007-04-11T11:31:00.006-05:00

In the last section we learned the general guidelines to follow when you are the first to act. But how do you respond on the flop when someone bets in front of you? We will run through the same scenarios as we did in the previous section. Again, these are general guidelines.

If you have a fantastic hand on a coordinated flop, reraise them! If they have a weaker hand or they are on a draw following the same strategy outlined for interesting/coordinated, bet for value and make it mathematically wrong for them to call. If they bet half the pot or larger, typically I will reraise them about 3 times their bet amount. If they bet smaller, like a minimum bet or a 2x blind bet, raise the size of the pot. The key here is to find out where you are at in the hand at the flop. If you just call, you haven't learned anything. If you reraise and they fold, great. However, if they reraise you, your warning bells should be going off. Stop and think about what they could have. If you think they might have a strong hand, just call and check/call to the river. But if you are pretty sure you have the best hand, push your whole stack in. Sometimes you will be wrong and get knocked out, but that is poker. Over time you will gain a sense as to how to respond in these situations. But generally speaking, you want to seek maximum value for your really strong hands.

If you have a fantastic hand on an uncoordinated flop, this is an opportunity to play your hand slower. Just call the bet and plan to reraise on the turn. If you reraise in this situation, they will probably fold unless they have a solid hand like a set. If they check the turn, bet your hand for value. If they bet the turn and no scare cards came (cards that could have improved your opponents hand but didn't improve your hand), raise for value.

If you have an interesting hand, regardless of the flop texture, make your decision whether to call on pot odds (review Lesson 4: Calculating Outs and Odds). Generally speaking, if you have the correct odds to call, call. If not, let the hand go. In the situation of a coordinated flop, sometimes you will have a very strong draw, say a straight draw and a flush draw. In this situation, reraise for value. You might win the pot immediately, but if not, you want to build the pot for when you hit your draw.

For the Titanic hands, just let'em go! Fold to any flop bet. If the hand is checked and you get to see the turn, follow the previous guideline that best matches the situation.

All of this information can be fairly overwelming to remember while playing. It might be easier to print out the information and have it beside you when you play. For a downloadable and printable version of the basic strategy, please click here!

Return to Course Outline

Lesson 7: On The Bubble Play

2007-04-09T13:05:00.004-05:00

What is "on the bubble" and how should you play while there?

You are "on the bubble" when you are one position away from finishing in the money. In a single table sit 'n go with 9 players starting and 3 players getting paid, you are on the bubble when you are down to 4 players (one away from the money). When the next player gets knocked out, the bubble bursts so to speak, and the remaining players get paid.

Most players tend to tighten up when on the bubble. The thinking is that if they just wait it out, someone will get knocked out and they will skate into the money. Other players realize this and become more aggressive, taking advantage of the tighter play around the table by stealing the blinds.

In order to determine the correct strategy you must first look at the prize structure. In multi-table tournaments, just making it into the money doesn't pay very well. Many times the prize will only be a percent or two of the total pool. The big money is in the top three places. So your goal should be building a big stack so you have enough chips to get there. Playing looser and more aggressive on the bubble in a multi-table tournament is the way to build your stack (or get you knocked out!). But in a 9 person single table sit 'n go, just making it to the money typically pays 20%. So for the single table tournaments your primary goals is survival. Once you make it to the money, then you can worry about finishing first.

So what changes should you make from the pre-flop strategy outlined previously? That's simple. NOTHING! Do not change a thing. Totally ignore that you are on the bubble. If you have a big stack, you will naturally play tighter because of the starting hand formula, and by playing tighter, you give yourself a chance to skate into the money. But if you are the small stack, your starting hand requirements will open up. If your stack gets below M7, you will be pushing all-in with the appropriate hands. And because most players on the bubble in single table tournaments play tighter, you are less likely to get called. So stick with the strategy and play it the same way on the bubble as you would if there were still 5 or 6 players left in the game.

Calling All-In Bets

I want to address one more area regarding bubble play: calling all-in bets. If you are the first to act and you open with a push, you have two ways to win. Either everyone will fold and you will win immediately or you will win if you have the best hand at showdown. However, when you call an all-in bet from another player, you lose that first-in advantage. Now you must win at showdown. As a result, your calling range must be much tighter than your pushing range. Here are some guidelines to help you make all-in calling decisions.

If the push comes from a larger stack than yours, call with AA and KK. Fold everything else. Again, it is about survival. Even QQ is a mere coin toss against someone holding AK. And don't risk your tournament on calling with AK, even if it is "sooooted!" After all, AK is just an ace with a good kicker. Even a pair of 2's has you beat unless you improve.

If the push comes from a smaller stack and losing at showdown will still leave you with M > 7, add QQ and AK to your calling range. If the smaller stack has been pushing frequently, you could add AQ suited and JJ, but your risk increases the further you open your range.

If the push comes from a stack that is less than 10% of your stack (great situation) and you are the last to act (so you do not have to fear a raise behind you), call with any pair above 88, any two face cards, and any two middle or better suited connectors.

The key message regarding bubble play is to continue to play the standard strategy outlined in previous lessons. Let the formula determine your starting hands and be careful when calling all-in bets. Your goal is to play carefully so you can survive until the bubble bursts.

Return to Course Outline

Lesson 8: In The Money Play

2007-04-08T09:13:00.002-05:00

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!

You made it to the money. You've played a solid game to this point. You were very patient and made good decisions. Now it is time to loosen up your game a little and see if you can put yourself in a position to WIN the sit 'n go tournament. In this lesson I will cover some tips for playing in the money.

First, regarding the prize pool. You are already guaranteed 20% of the pool. Your goal at this point should be 1st place, not surviving long enough to squeeze into 2nd place. Although 3rd place is profitable on any single sit 'n go, if you finish 3rd place in as high as 50% of the sit 'n go's you play, you will still lose money. Here's the math using a $10 sit 'n go as an example:

Entry fee: $10 + 1 = $11 total.
3rd place prize: $10 x 9 players = $90 x 20% = $18

So if you play two sit 'n go's and cash 50% of the time your cost is $22 and your prize is $18, giving you a net loss of $4. Therefore...

First Place Is Your Goal

Many players, especially when they are on the short stack, will play very conservatively once they get into the money. The thinking is that if they can just hold on long enough for another player to get knocked out, they will make it to at least 2nd place and have a shot at heads-up to win. However, there are two problems with this thinking.

First, your profit finishing in 2nd place is just over 2 times the profit for 3rd place. However, your profit for 1st place is more than the profit of 2nd and 3rd combined! Your profit for finishing 1st place is almost 5 times the amount of finishing in 3rd place. On a $10 sit n' go your profit looks like this:

3rd place profit = $7
2nd place profit = $16
1st place profit = $34

So the message is simple... when you get into the money, your goal should be to WIN the tournament, not survive long enough to move into 2nd place.

Second, if you play conservatively when you are in the money, the blinds will chew away at your stack. And if you finally make it to heads-up, you will not have a large enough stack to play effectively against the big stack. So building your stack is critical during the initial stages of in the money play.

Next: In The Money (2)

Lesson 8: In The Money (2)

2007-04-07T10:53:00.002-05:00

Adjustment to Pre-Flop Strategy

In the pre-flop strategy I outlined the following formula for card selection:

If (EV x 100) > M, raise! Otherwise, fold.

When you are in the money you want to continue to select solid starting hands, but you should open up your hand selection slightly. Generally speaking, now you want to play any hand with a positive EV, regardless of your stack size. There are some things to watch for which I will outline shortly. But the key at this point is to get involved with pots to give yourself an opportunity to hit a big hand and either knock out a smaller stack or double-up through a larger stack.

The Small Stack

If you are the small stack at the table, your goal is to double-up against one of the other two players. They will typically be more cautious at this point because they want you to get knocked out so they can play heads-up, and both of them will be hoping the other player knocks you out. Usually, the player with the medium stack will be more cautious than the big stack. So, you want to look for opportunities to get your money in against the medium stack.

In his books, Dan Harrington talks about "first in vigorish." When you are the first to put your money in, you have two ways to win. First, the others might fold to you and you win the pot uncontested. Second, if you get called, you have the best hand at showdown and you win the pot. When you are the short stack, this is your key weapon--getting your money in the pot first. If someone raises before you, you lose the first in vigorish and now need a very strong hand to call. But if you are first to act, you can push with weaker starting hands due to your first in vigorish.

So, as the small stack, if you have a positive EV hand, look for opportunities to push all-in when you are first to act. Obviously, if you have a strong hand like a big pocket pair, push regardless of what happens before you. But your key strategy as the short stack is to get your money in before the flop and hope to pick up the blinds uncontested.

The Medium Stack

As the medium stack at the table, you are in a tough situation. You need to be careful of the small stack as they will be looking for opportunities to push (as described above). In addition, the big stack is also looking for an opportunity to knock you out. The strategy here is fairly straightforward. If you are first to act and the short stack is next to act, raise 3x the blind or half the amount of the short stack, which ever is more, with any positive EV hand. The goal is to bet enough that the short stack will be pot committed if he calls. If they are playing a similar strategy as outlined above, they will lose their first in vigorish and will only call you with a strong starting hand. You want to put pressure on the small stack and force them to commit their chips.

If you are first to act and the big stack is next to act, continue to play the "normal" strategy as outlined in the pre-flop lessons. When the short stack sees the two of you in a hand, they will often sit out the hand (unless they have a big hand) hoping the big stack knocks you out, allowing them to slide into 2nd place. Don't be afraid to play against the big stack as he will want to protect his lead so he has the chip advantage when you get heads-up. Your best opportunity to build your chip stack will be through the big stack.

Next: In The Money (3)

Lesson 8: In The Money (3)

2007-04-06T10:57:00.002-05:00

The Big Stack

You are in the money and you have the big stack at the table. It doesn't get any better than this! Both the small stack and the medium stack will be making plays to try to build their stacks, and you are the key target for both of them! Many players will sit on their big stacks waiting for the small stack to get knocked out. However, as the big stack, your job is to put pressure on the medium and small stacks. The medium stack will be concerned about going up against you as he wants to survive long enough for the small stack to get knocked out. The small stack is also hoping that you knock out the medium stack so he can slide into 2nd place. Neither one of them (unless they are playing the strategies outlined above) are going to want a confirmation with you, the big stack. So use that to your advantage.

If you are first to act, raise with ANY two cards. You want to put pressure on the other stacks. About 2/3 of the time they will fold to you, allowing you to pick up the blinds. If they call your raise, decide your next play based on the results of the flop. If one of them reraises you or pushes all-in and you have a weak starting hand, just fold and repeat the process on the next hand. If you are able to pick up the blinds 2/3 of the times, your raise and fold is still profitable. Obviously, if you have a big hand, call or reraise them all-in.

Conclusion

I have outlined the basic strategy for in the money play. There are a number of changes you should make to the strategy based on the playing characteristics of your opponents and the situation you are in. I will cover them in detail in the advanced lessons. But for now, when you make it to the money, your goal should be to WIN, not to survive long enough to make it to the next pay level. So play aggressively, even it that means you get knocked out in 3rd place.

As the small stack, first in vigorish is your main weapon. Use it. As the middle stack, put pressure on the small stack and play straight-forward poker against the big stack. As the big stack, pressure, pressure, pressure is the name of the game.

Again, congratulations on making the money. Next I will outline the strategy for heads-up play.

Return to Course Outline

Lesson 9: Heads-Up Play

2007-04-05T10:33:00.003-05:00

Congratulations, again! One more player has been knocked out and now you are heads up. In the $10 example I gave in the previous lesson, you are now guaranteed a profit of $16. However, the profit for 1st place is more than twice the amount for 2nd. This is what makes the heads-up portion of sit ‘n go poker so important, and profitable!. In this lesson I will provide a basic strategy for heads-up play. First I will cover three concepts:

Small-ball poker
All about ICM
Most flops miss

Then I will go into some details regarding how you should play from the big blind and from the small blind.

Small-Ball Poker

You have seen players like Daniel Negreanu and Gus Hansen play many hands and see a lot of flops. It is near impossible to put them on a hand because they could be playing any two cards. If they miss the flop or the situation is unfavorable for them, they let the hand go quickly, or at a minimum keep the pot small. However, if they hit, watch out… they will take your stack!

That is what small-ball poker is all about. In a heads-up situation, you want to see as many flops as you can, and you want to see them cheaply. Cards that you would easily muck pre-flop in early sit ‘n go play become solid starting hands in heads-up play. Small-ball is about keeping the pot small and about picking away at your opponent’s stack a little bit at a time. Some players turn into push-bots once they get heads up. That is OK for some, primarily people who lack post-flop skill. However, the winning strategy is to play many small pots and slowly build your chip stack.

Next: Heads-Up Play (2)

Lesson 9: Heads-Up Play (2)

2007-04-04T10:35:00.004-05:00

All About ICM

ICM is an acronym that stands for Independent Chip Model. It is a mathematical formula that calculates your equity in push situations. In heads-up play, when your stack drops below the Yellow M-Zone, you must shift from small-ball to push/fold poker. However, in order to make good decisions you must know which hands are mathematically correct to push, and you must know which hands to call when your opponent pushes. This is where ICM comes in.

There are a few good ICM calculators on the market. Most people use these tools to review hand histories after a game to evaluate their push/fold decisions. I use a tool called SitNGo Wizard to evaluate my heads-up play post-game (some refer to this tool as SNG Wizard). Most ICM tools will only allow you to evaluate situations where someone pushes in front of you, or everyone folds to you. SitNGo Wizard will also calculate situations where someone limps or raises in front of you. The interface for SitNGo Wizard is also the best of the ICM tools.

Through an evaluation of your play you can identify mistakes, learn from them, and apply them to your next heads-up match. I will go into great detail on ICM and push/fold decisions in the advanced lesson on ICM.

Most Flops Miss

During heads-up play, most flops miss most hands. About 2/3rd's of the time the flop will miss you and your opponent. If you flop a pair, even bottom pair, the odds are in your favor that you have the best hand. Likewise, if you miss the flop, the odds are in your favor that your opponent missed also. Unless you are playing against a “trappy” player (covered in the advanced lessons), the spoils in heads-up poker usually go to the more aggressive player. We will cover post-flop aggression in the next two sections.

Next: Heads Up Play (3)

Lesson 9: Heads-Up Play (3)

2007-04-03T10:37:00.003-05:00

The Small Blind

When you are in the small blind you have a distinct advantage against your opponent because you get to act first before the flop and last on all subsequent betting rounds. As a result, you should be more aggressive with your starting hands. However, being more aggressive doesn't mean playing any two cards, although it wouldn't be a major mistake to do so. Why?

Here's why. From the small blind you always have the correct odds to call, regardless of your cards. If the blinds are 50 and 100, there is 150 in the starting pot. It costs you 50 to call into a 150 pot giving you 3:1 odds. In the previous section I mentioned that you will miss the flop about 2/3rd's of the time. This means you will hit the flop about 1/3rd of the time, giving you the correct odds to call.

So from the small blind, assuming your M is greater than 7, call with any two cards. Even a 72 off can win the pot if you hit a 7 or a 2 on the flop (most flops miss most hands!). In small-ball poker you want to see as many flops as you can. You have the correct odds to call. Make sure you do not give up this opportunity.

For any hand with a positive EV, come in for a minimum raise. Use Tournament Indicator to identify the correct EV value for heads-up play. You want action from your opponent. By raising the minimum you are giving your opponent the correct odds to call. If he min-reraises you, tend to call the reraise (unless it is an all-in). You want to send the message early that he will not push you out of a pot. The exception to this is when your opponent rarely min-reraise; in this case it is likely that he has a real hand. Call with any pair and any two face cards. Push with AA and KK.

As discussed above, heads-up poker is about aggression. If it is checked to you on the button, tend to bet the flop, regardless of what comes. You were the aggressor before the flop and you should continue to be the aggressor on the flop. Don’t give up the lead unless you totally miss the flop AND the board is coordinated. If you experience resistance (he calls or raises), revert to the post-flop strategy on the turn. Be willing to give up the hand if you think you are beat.

Next: Heads-Up Play (4)

Lesson 9: Heads-Up Play (4)

2007-04-02T10:38:00.002-05:00

The Big Blind

When playing from the big blind you are last to act before the flop and first to act and out of position on each subsequent betting round. Position is critical in all forms of poker. However, the importance is amplified during heads-up play. Position gives you a distinct disadvantage over your opponent. There are four pre-flop scenarios:

Your opponent folds—Well, this one is obvious. Collect your chips and move on. But don’t make this mistake when you are in the small blind—as we discussed, you have the correct odds to call with any two cards.

Your opponents limps—When your opponent just calls the blind you have two choices. You can check and see the flop for free, or you can raise, hoping to move your opponent off the hand. As a general rule, if your starting hand is positive EV, raise the minimum. If it is negative EV, just check and see the flop. By raising your positive EV hands you are betting for value with a hand that is likely stronger than your opponent's. As the pre-flop raiser this puts you in position for a continuation bet. In addition, some opponents will fold their limped hand pre-flop, allowing you to pick up the pot immediately. On occasion you should switch up your play, raising a larger amount with weaker hands, and checking your stronger hands. This will reduce the ability for your opponent to put you on a range of hands.

Your opponent raises—Continuing with the 50/100 example, if your opponent raises the minimum, you are being asked to call 100 into a 300 pot, giving you the same odds as calling from the small blind. However, in this situation, your opponent is saying that he has a hand. This is a slightly different scenario from calling the small blind because your opponent chose to put in a raise. Typically they will only do that when they have a playable hand. Therefore, when your opponent raises from the small blind, call with any positive EV hand. Fold the rest and wait for a better opportunity. If your opponent gets into the mode of raising every time they are in the small blind, reraise with any positive EV hand. You want to send the message that you won’t put up with constant raises when you have the button.

Your opponent pushes—When your opponent pushes, you now have an ICM problem to solve. If your equity on the call is positive, call and hope for the best. If it is negative, fold and wait for a better opportunity. Again, use SitNGo Wizard to evaluate your play so you can learn which hands to call and which to fold. Until you have a good grasp on it, tend to fold against a push unless you have a big hand.

Next: Heads-Up Play (5)

Lesson 9: Heads-Up Play (5)

2007-04-01T10:42:00.002-05:00

Short Stack Play

Once your M drops below 7, you lose the ability to play poker after the flop. As a short stack, you have two choices, push or fold. You are no longer thinking about pot odds or position. You simply want a hand that is better than an “average” hand. Once again, use the EV of the starting hand as your guide. If your EV is positive, push. If it is negative, fold. Obviously if you are in the big blind and the small blind limps, you can check with a negative EV hand. However, on the flop, either push if you hit or fold if you miss and your opponent bets into you.

Summary

I have provided some general guidelines for heads-up play. These strategies will work well against the average player. However, the key to excelling at heads-up play is adjusting the basic strategy based on the playing patterns of your opponent and individual situations. I will cover these in detail in the advanced lessons. For now, use the strategies outlined and don’t forget to mix up your play a little to keep your opponent guessing.

Return to Course Outline

Tournament Indicator (Calculator)

2007-03-31T12:11:00.004-05:00

As I have outlined in my lessons, I use Tournament Indicator to help me make solid decisions while playing sit 'n go poker tournaments. Note: If you play primarily cash games instead of tournaments, see Hold'em Indicator information.

Download Tournament Indicator
FREE Trial Version Now!

After you have evaluated Tournament Indicator, there are two ways for you to obtian a license (bookmark this page so you can find it again!):

Free Lifetime License--You can obtain a free lifetime license to Tournament Indicator by signing up at one of many poker sites using the sign up code provided for Tournament Indicator.
Purchase a License--If you already have accounts at each of the sites listed for the free lifetime licence, you can simply purchase a license.

The following is a sales blurb that I "borrowed" from the Tournament Indicator website. Enjoy!

Tournament Indicator is unlike any other poker calculator because it is specifically designed for Texas Holdem online tournament play. The indicators used in the software are the same you would use in a real tournament situation, but are quite different from a ring or cash game. Poker calculators designed for ring games simply cannot offer the critical information used to make correct decisions in tournaments. Correct decision making at game critical intersects is what makes a tournament player successful.

Download Tournament Indicator Now!

Here are some of the features Tournament Indicator offers an online tournament player:

Instant MZone Calculations
Now you will know what MZone you are in as well as every other players' at your table. Depending on which MZone you are in can drastically alter your strategy, and the same is for your opponents. Only now, you are the only one with ALL the critical information at the table.

Player Profiling
In early tournament play you can learn a lot about your opponents by watching everything they do. Harder said than done, but Tournament Indicator does it all for you tracking VPIP%, Aggression, PFR%, showdown wins, and more. All these combined make for real-time player classifications that you can use against your opponents at the right time.

Tilt Factor Monitoring
New to poker calculators also is Tournament Indicator's ability to provide you with insight as to your opponent's tilt potential. By tracking hand streak in wins and losses and a tally on the player's stack over the last 10 hands gives you even more insight into that players current psyche.

MatchCard Showdown
Different criteria enter into the decision making process as a tournament winds down. Whether you are short stack, big stack or other, in the money or on the bubble, you will be faced with numerous all-in confrontations as part of the normal play of tournaments. What Tournament Indicator's MatchCard feature offers is a quick view of potential hands you might be up against.

Odds Calculations
Holdem Indicator set the standard for quick, easy to understand odds display while incorporating a visual display of comparing win odds to pot odds in each betting round. Tournament Indicator uses that same technology to give users the most relevant information with proven, reliable technology.

MiniView and Customized Settings
You won't feel squeezed on your computer screen as Tournament Indicator can be minimized on the game window. We like our profile settings but if you don't, just go ahead and adjust the profiling, and tilt factor settings to where they make more sense for you.

How To Get It!
Again, there are two ways you can get a license to use Tournament Indicator:

Free Lifetime License--You can obtain a free lifetime license to Tournament Indicator by signing up at one of many poker sites using the sign-up code offered for Tournament Indicator.
Purchase a License--If you already have accounts at each of the sites listed for the free lifetime licence, you can simply purchase a licence.

For screenshots and more information, please see the Tournament Indicator Website.

Return to Course Outline

Hold'em Indicator (Cash Game Calculator)

2007-03-31T10:30:00.000-05:00

Holdem Indicator, the state-of-the-art online poker odds calculator, offers instant poker odds, real time opponent statistics and betting patterns in simple and easy to understand displays. With this feature-rich poker odds calculator, you’ll immediately have every piece of information you need to make intelligent and profitable decisions. Note: If you play primarily tournaments, see Tournament Indicator information.

Download Hold'em Indicator
FREE Trial Version Now!

After you have evaluated Hold'em Indicator, there are two ways for you to obtian a license (bookmark this page so you can find it again!):

Free Lifetime License--You can obtain a free lifetime license to Hold'em Indicator by signing up at one of many poker sites using the sign up code provided for Hold'em Indicator.

Purchase a License--If you already have accounts at each of the sites listed for the free lifetime licence, you can simply purchase a license.

The following is a list of some of the features of Hold'em Indcator:

Automatically attaches to the game table while it auto-reads your cards, absolutely no input required during your online play, allowing you to fully concentrate on the game.
Instantly calculates accurate win odds, pot odds, outs, and table position. Shows EV and Sklansky Group ratings for your hole cards.
Shows your opponents mucked cards immediately after showdown so you don't have to retrieve hand history or numerous emails from your poker site.
YOU HAVE THE NUTS ALERT: Eliminates any confusion when you have the best possible hand. This way you can concentrate on how to extract the most money possible from your helpless opponents.
Mini view mode saves space on your screen, which is ideal for multi-tabling, but retains all the vital information for quick reference.
Opponent Stats helps you better understand your opponent's playing styles. You can even run Hold'em Indicator while you wait to sit at a table, collecting vital player information - before you ever risk a cent! NO other poker calculator on the market has this feature!
During play, Holdem Indicator categorizes your opponents based on hard evidence (Loose/Tight, Aggressive/Passive, Solid/Overplay), which helps you find the fish, bully the rocks, and exploit the maniacs.
Hold'em Indicator even tracks your own playing style, and lets you know what others may be thinking about your play.
Supports over 180 online poker rooms.

For screenshots and more information, please see the Hold'em Indicator Website.

Introduction to Advanced Studies

2007-02-15T16:17:00.004-06:00

In the basic strategy I provided a solid foundation for playing single table sit ‘n go poker tournaments. By applying the basic strategy you should be able to finish in the money at a higher percentage than the average low-stakes player. However, the purpose of this training isn’t to create better than average players. It is to create top-notch players that make serious money playing poker online. In order to do so you must develop the skill and knowledge necessary to win at the higher levels. The advanced lessons will provide you with the knowledge; through careful application, you will develop the skill.

If you have not yet studied and applied the basic sit ‘n go strategy, please do so before continuing with the advanced lessons. It is tempting to want to move into the advanced lessons thinking that you already know the basics. However, the advanced lessons build on the basic strategy. Unless you have already mastered the basic strategy, the advanced lessons might provide too much information for you to apply at once.

If you want a downloadable and printable version of the basic strategy, please click here. Otherwise, let’s move on to the first lesson.

Go To Lesson 10: Player Profiling

Lesson 10: Player Profiling

2007-02-14T16:19:00.002-06:00

Poker is not about chips stacks, position, or cards. It is not about having the guts to push your chips in with nothing. Forget about tournament stages, M-zones, EV, and everything else I taught you in the basic strategy. All of that matters, but it is not what is most important. Howard Lederer is fond of saying, “Poker is a game of incomplete information.” Poker is about making solid decisions in a given situation based on the information that you have been able to extract. Extracting information so you can make solid decisions is what is most important. And in order to do so, you must develop a clear understanding of your opponents. Player profiling is the first step.

Winner or Loser?

During the first few minutes of a sit ‘n go tournament you want to focus on identifying the winners and the losers at the table. By winners and losers I am referring to a players’ history of making the money. This is important because winning players are winning for a reason—they are playing in a way that allows them to get to the money at a higher frequency than losers. However, the strategy used by winning players is fairly consistent. If you identify the winning players and know the strategy they are using, you can exploit it. Likewise, losers are losing for a reason—they are making bad decisions.

So how do you identify winning and losing players? I use an online databased at Sharkscope.com. Sharkscope is the world’s largest database of online sit ‘n go results. Sharkscope charges a subscription fee to access the information, but the fee is well worth it. In the next two pages I will run through what I do at the start of every sit ‘n go to begin profiling players.

Go To Player Profiling 2

Lesson 10: Player Profiling (2)

2007-02-13T16:22:00.002-06:00

Using Sharkscope

Once the sit ‘n go has filled, use Sharkscope to search for the tournament in the provided field. For the purpose of this lesson, I picked a random $20 single table sit ‘n go on Full Tilt that had just started. Follow is a summary of the initial search.

The summary shows the nine players in this sit ‘n go along with their historical sit ‘n go data. With this information on the screen, I color code the players using the notes section in Full Tilt (see below). If the site you play at doesn’t allow you to color code your notes, you will need to type the details (maybe the color) into the notes section.

I use the following color codes:

Green—identifies winning players—those with at least 100 games and an ROI of 5% or higher.
Red—identifies losing players—those with at least 100 games and an ROI of -5% or lower.
Yellow—any players between Green and Red.

Sharkscope will also add graphics to some of the “special” players. For players with > 100 games and an ROI < -20%, they are identified by a little fish bowl… they are the fish at the table. I color code them blue. In addition, although not shown in this example, players with > 100 games, an average profit of >$5, and an ROI >20%, sharkscope puts a little graphic of a shark beside their name. As you guessed, these are the sharks. You won’t run into sharks too often at the lower buy-in levels. I color code them purple (like royalty!).

The Full Tilt game table looks like the above graphic after initial color coding. Note how easy it is to see the winning players and the losing players at the table. Coming up we will get into how to use this information to help you make decisions. But before moving on, the next step is to fine-tune your winning/losing indicators.

Go To Player Profiling (3)

Lesson 10: Player Profiling (3)

2007-02-12T16:32:00.002-06:00

Examine Trends and Modify

By clicking on the names of each player, Sharkscope will provide three graphs to expand on the information from the summary page. By looking at the first graph (on the left) you can see the historical winning / losing trend for each player. At this point you are looking for any information that might change your initial profiling. These trends are a reliable indication of the type of play you can expect from your opponents. A player with a steady winning trend will typically play a certain style—a tight and aggressive style. Likewise, a player with a downward losing trend typically plays loose and passive or sometimes aggressive. We will go into detail about how to use this information in the next lesson.

The key now is to review the trends to see if any changes need to be made to your initial profiling. The first three are the losing players. All have downward trends. No changes needed.

If we look at the trends for the two winning players we marked in green, both have upward trends. No changes needed.

However, when we look at Duke Gareth’s graph (below), we notice a recent change in his trend. He (or she) was on a consistent downward trend, but the trend changed about 50 games ago. This is the type of graph you are looking for. A trend like this usually indicates that this player has changed something about his game and is now playing a winning strategy (maybe he went through my training!). Also notice his ROI on $20 sit ‘n go’s (second graph). The random game I am using for this example is at the $20 level. You can see that Duke is running almost 30% ROI at the $20 level.

For Duke, based on the additional information, I would modify the color code for his graph to at least yellow, if not moving him all the way to green. I want to identify him as a winning player so I know to adjust my play against Duke accordingly. We will watch his game closely in the next lesson, as we expand on profiling players during actual play.

So, based on our initial profiling, we see three winning players, RussTVY, daman83, and Duke Gareth. I expect each of these players to play tight/aggressive and to make it to the bubble (barring a bad beat along the way).

The trends for all the other players are consistent with the initial summary page, so no changes necessary.

Now that we have completed the initial profiling we shift attention to identifying the playing style for each of your opponents. Identifying the playing style of each opponent is necessary to help you figure out the types of hands they are playing and how they will typically play them. We will cover this in the next lesson.

Next: Purchase the Basic Strategy

Lesson 11: Identifing Playing Styles

2007-02-10T11:16:00.002-06:00

In the previous lesson we learned how to identify the winning and losing players at the table. We will combine that information with this lesson on playing styles and the next lesson on active observation to read your opponent’s hand. Once you are able to put your opponent on a hand and understand how he responds to a given situation, you can modify your play from the basic strategy to bluff and steal from your opponents. This lesson is broken into two section:

Pre-Flop Playing Styles
Post-Flop Playing Styles

One note before we get started. If these concepts are new to you, you might be overwhelmed by the amount of information that you need to keep track of. But don’t worry, I will show you how to automate the tracking and use the information to make sound decisions. For now, just focus on understanding the concepts.

Go To Pre-Flop Playing Styles

Lesson 11: Pre-Flop Playing Styles

2007-02-08T11:20:00.001-06:00

There are basically three types of playing styles before the flop: tight, loose, and neutral. A tight player is someone who is very selective of the cards they start with and as a result will play very few hands before entering the pot. A loose player is someone who has a wider range of hands they are willing to play, and as a result they will enter more pots. A neutral player is anyone between the tight and loose measurements.

VP$IP Percentage

To identify the tight and loose players, we use a measurement called VP$IP, which stands for Voluntarily Puts Money In Pot. The “voluntarily” part of the measurement means that they choose to put money in when they are not required to do so. For example, if you are on the button and you decide to limp or raise, you have voluntarily put money into the pot. However, if you are on the big blind and it is limped around to you, when you check you have not put any additional money in the pot, so you would not count this toward an increase of the players' VP$IP score. If the big blind calls a raise, they have voluntarily put money into the pot and therefore the call would increase the players' VP$IP score.

The default measurements for VP$IP are as follows:

Tight: Less than 24%
Loose: Greater than 30%
Neutral: Between 24%-30%.

Typically players will fall into the tight or loose category. Pre-flop Raise % Another critical measurement is the percentage of hands that your opponent raises pre-flop. Again, we will use this information to help narrow the possible hands your opponent is playing. Of the total hands your opponent is dealt, the pre-flop raise percentage (or PFR%) measures the percent of total hands dealt that your opponent raised pre-flop. For example, if your opponent was dealt 100 hands and they raised 10 of those hands pre-flop, their PFR% would be 10%. You can combine this information with the VP%IP to learn about how your opponent plays. In this example, if your opponents' VP$IP is 20% and his PFR% is 10%, this means your opponent entered the pot 20 times out of 100 and raise 10 of those hands—your opponent is raising 50% of the hands played. Interpreting Pre-flop Information Once you are about 20 hands into the tournament you can use the VP$IP and PFR%, along with your initial player profiling, to help you narrow the range of hands that your opponent is playing. Using the data from the example tournament we discussed in the previous lesson, following is a screen shot of the opponent stats tracking function within Tournament Indicator. The numbers in the VP$IP column are colored green, red, and black. Green represents tight pre-flop play. Red represents loose play. Black represents neutral play. As I mentioned earlier, most players will fit in the tight (green) or loose (red) categories. The next column displays the PFR%. The numbers in this column are not color coded. By combining this information you can draw some initial conclusions about your opponent’s play. For example, if you look at the stats for the first player, island hope, he has voluntarily entered the pot about 60% of the hands that he has been dealt. This player is playing a wide range of hands. As a result, you can expect his starting hands to be much weaker than a player like moerch25, who has only entered 5% of the time. Continuing the comparison, island hope has raised 25% of his hands, or almost half of the hands he has voluntarily entered the pot with. This typically means that he is raising with his stronger hands and limping with his weaker hands. In contrast, moerch25 has not raised pre-flop at this point. If moerch25 enters the pot with a raise, you can expect him to have a premium hand (maybe a big pair or AK). The tight players like moerch25 are fairly easy to read using these stats. I will show you how to interpret and play against opponents like island hope in an upcoming lesson. Now that we have a general understanding of how to identify pre-flop playing styles, we will shift attention to post-flop play.

Go To Post-Flop Playing Styles

Lesson 11: Post-Flop Playing Styles

2007-02-06T11:28:00.003-06:00

Similar to the pre-flop styles, there are three post-flop styles that players typically fall into: aggressive, passive, and neutral. An aggressive player is one who typically bets or raises after the flop. A passive player is one who typically checks or calls. Neutral players are somewhere in the middle. The measure used to track this is called the aggression factor. In addition, you will want to track the percentage of time that your opponent goes to showdown. Both of these measurements are important in determining how to play against your opponent after the flop. We will address the aggression factor first.

Aggression Factor (AF)

The aggression factor (AF) is used to identify the playing style of your opponents after the flop. It is calculated by dividing the percentage of times that they bet or raise by the percentage of times they call. Here’s the formula:

AF = (Raise % + Bet %) / Call %

The default measurements for VP$IP are as follows:

Aggressive: Greater than 1.5
Passive: Less than 1
Neutral: Between 1 and 1.5

An opponent with a high AF means that they typically bet or raise after the flop. A player with a passive AF means they typically check or call. We will cover how to use this information in a moment. Went To Showdown Percentage (WSD%) The WSD% is exactly what is stated—it is a measurement of the percentage of time your opponent stayed in the hand until the end, until the showdown. Although the measurement is fairly simple, interpreting the WSD% must not be done in isolation. You must use the other information you have collected on your opponent in order to draw proper conclusions. As mentioned in previous lessons, you can only expect to hit the flop about a 1/3rd of the time. Therefore, if your opponents' WSD% is higher than about 33%, he is overplaying his hands. Likewise, if his WSD% is low, they are playing a soild FIT or fold post-flop strategy. Went To Showdown and Won (WSDW%) Similar to the WSD%, of the times your opponent went to showdown, this is the percentage of times that they won the pot. A player with a high percentage is playing solid post-flop. A player with a low percentage is staying in too long and is typically showing down weak hands like top pair with a poor kicker or second pair. Interpreting Post-Flop Information We will get into great detail about how to use this information to modify your play in an upcoming lesson. But for now, I will provide an example to start you thinking about it. Using the Tournament Indicator data from the example tournament, let’s examine island hope’s stats. He has an AF of 2.1 which means he typically bets or raises about twice as much as checking or calling after the flop. This is the type of player from which you can expect a continuation bet. His WSD% is 12%. So although he is very aggressive after the flop, he also knows when to put the breaks on and let go of a hand. This is the type of player that takes a shot at the pot and then gives up if he encounters resistance (We will discuss how to play against this type of player in an upcoming lesson). His WSDW% is 83%. So of the hands he took to showdown, he has won most of them, meaning that he only goes to showdown with stronger holdings. To put this into actual numbers for island hope:

He has been dealt 50 hands (see total on far right).
He has voluntarily played 22 hands (this does not include checking from the big blind).
He has raised 11 of his 22 hands.
He bets or raises about twice as many times as he calls after the flop.
He went to showdown 6 times.
He won at showdown 5 of the 6 times.

To summarize, this player likes to play a lot of hands, is aggressive after the flop, but lets the hand go when he misses the flop and encounters resistance. So how do you play against this player? Aggressively! You can expect this player to bet about 2/3rds of his hands after the flop. And about half of the time he won’t have a hand. If you are first to act and bet into this player (regardless of your holding), he will probably fold unless he has a hand. Likewise, if you are last to act and he bets, he will likely fold if you raise (again, unless he has a hand). However, the numbers in themselves do not give you the whole picture. We said above that he bets or raises about twice as many times as he calls. So what does it mean when he bets? Does that mean he has a hand? What does it mean when he only calls? Does he only bet when he hits something or has a good draw? Does he always call on a draw? This is the final piece of the puzzle that you must put together. We will cover this in detail in the next lesson, Active Observation. As you will soon see, once you know how your opponent plays, it really doesn’t matter what cards YOU are holding!

Return to Course Outline

SitNGoTraining.com Book Store

2006-08-22T10:03:00.000-05:00

Comments from Readers

2005-09-30T10:40:00.012-05:00

I have been receiving good comments on the SitNGoTraining.com site. Following are a few of them in response to the originally free version of the training. You can now access the training for a small fee. Please keep the comments coming!

Access the training NOW!

Hi Tom,
I just wanted to let you know that I reviewed your website a week ago, and since opening a $50 new acct. at Bodog I have doubled my bankroll!. I am ready to move up to the $4 level and in fact already played 1 tourney today at this level and came in 1st place! So far, I am to getting used to the Tournament Indicator, and that along wth your great advice seems to be working for me.
--
Hi, I just came across your blog yesterday, I have read the whole thing and improved my game already! I got Tournament Indicator, and placed 1st in the first tourney, and 2nd in the second one. I just wanted to say THANK YOU! That program and your blog have made me feel like I have been driving at night without the lights on, and finally I figured out where the switch is to turn them on! ;) I really hope your blog continues soon, and you go over some of the strategy for the big, multi-table tourneys!

--
Just wanted to let you know that I stumbled across your web site today and digested the sit n go material in a couple of hours. I've been a slightly winning player for the past year in cash games but a bit of a loser in sit n go tournaments. Anyhow, I played 7 sit n go tournaments today and was VERY successful...I placed in 5 out of the 7 events. My starting bankroll was $275 and after it was all said in done I ended the day with $335! I've risked way more money in cash games to earn the same $60 profit. I just wanted to thank you for your great website. Now that I've read it I would like you to start charging a subscription for the information! Thanks again!
--
I would like to thank you for publishing such an insightful piece of work on the Internet. I have spent the last few weeks looking on the Internet for the best sit 'n go strategy site and your site by far is the bast. You could really publish this into a book, such as I have done by printing out all of the pages and keeping them in a 3 ring binder for reference at any time. As soon as I read your work I immediately began winning with $500 in the first month. Hopefully the coming months bring much more profit to my bankroll and I look forward to reading your further sections.
--
Thank you for allowing someone like myself the opportunity to read your work. I have used it and I see a very big difference in my game play. I am looking forward to studying more. Usually when I cashed, I finished third. I was so tired of this, and I needed to analyze my game. There were so many pointers that you have exposed, that helped me to finish first and second.
--
I would like to start by thanking you for publishing this wonderful resource. The combination of your lessons and Tournament Indicator have drastically increased my profit. With that being said I am eagerly anticipating the rest of the lessons. Keep up the good work!!
--
I wanted to write and tell you how much I appreciate your site. I have recently started playing holdem and am concentrating on micro-limit SNGs. I have read a lot of articles on playing them but your site is the most informative I have found. My play has improved and I am looking forward to moving up.
--
Awesome reading man-- I've learned so much from your articles so far and I'm making a shitload of money!! Thanks a lot man and keep 'em coming!!!
--
I was reading through your site last night. What I've read of your strategy guide is great so far. I think I've read about 10-15 poker books over the past half year and none of them have been this good at elaborating on Sit N Go's.
--
Hi there.
I just want to thank you for a very nice website with some useful information. Great job!!!
--
My name is John and i live in Greece. I want to thank you for giving in public all this priceless information about how to play sit n go tourneys. Now that i have understood how i must act pre-flop calculating the EV (Tournament Indicator helps me a lot) i make solid moves. I also know how to slow play a monster, when to fold with almost a monster etc. I know all these that the 99% of all the other players don't know in tourney.
--
Just wanted to say, thanks for the training course - I don't think I've seen anything like it anywhere else. Excellent, clear explanations and advice. I'm really looking forward to the advanced lessons! Keep up the good work!
--
Dear Mr Kennedy, Congratulations for the fantastic work you have done to your site. The tips and the strategy for sit n go are excellent. I finally understood how EV works and what M Zone is. I ordered Collin Moshman's book and downloaded Tournament Indicator.
--
Hi Thomas,
I have to say I am very impressed with what you have done. The site is looking very good, and looks to be a very useful training tool.
Just want to let you know that you are more than welcome to use any material from my blog for your own site. I believe in sharing information that will hopefully make us all better poker players, and what you are doing will go a long way to helping my game. Hopefully some of my material will help you and your readers also. Keep up the good work and I hope the site is a success for you.
--
Thomas,
I visited your site. Without doubt it is the best I've seen. I hope it is doing well for you. I added a link to you on my blog under 'Poker Sites Worth A Visit'. Your comments are always welcome.

---

Thomas, I checked out your site and the info you are sharing is amazing! I found it helpful to me and I believe some of the methods you outline will help me find even more success. I've written a small blurb about Sit N Go Training at the end of my most recent entry, and I hope people read that and check out your site. Good luck, looking forward to the completion of the lessons.
--

Access the training NOW!!!

PDF Version Of Basic Training

2005-09-06T12:58:00.008-05:00

Lesson 1: Bankroll Management
Lesson 2: Selecting the "Best" Sit 'n Go's.
Lesson 3: EV and M-Zone Foundation
Lesson 4: Calculating Outs and Odds

Applying Sit 'n Go Strategy Basics

Lesson 5: Pre-Flop Play
Lesson 6: Post-Flop Play
Lesson 7: On The Bubble Play
Lesson 8: In The Money Play
Lesson 9: Heads-Up Play

If you have any problems accessing the file, please notify support@sitngotraining.com. We will return all messages within one business day.

Advanced Sit 'n Go Strategy

2005-08-29T07:21:00.000-05:00

I am in the process of writing the advanced lessons. The advanced lessons will build on the basic strategy and will cover the following:

Advanced Sit 'n Go Strategy

Lesson 10: Profiling Players
Lesson 11: Identifing Playing Styles (Coming Soon)
Lesson 12: Active Observation
Lesson 13: Reading Players' Hands
Lesson 14: Implied Odds
Lesson 15: ICM and Push/Fold

Applying Advanced Sit 'n Go Strategy

Lesson 16: Deviating From Basic Strategy
Lesson 17: Bluffing / Stealing
Lesson 18: Revisiting The Bubble
Lesson 19: Multi-Tabling
Lesson 20: Moving to Higher Stakes

If you have applied the information in the basic strategy, you should already be playing profitable sit 'n go poker. However, the advanced lessons will help you take advantage of information that is readily available at the table, thereby increasing your "in the money" finish percentage. If you wish to receive an e-mail notification once the advanced lessons are available, please join my mailing list.

Until then, good luck at the tables!

Return to Course Outline

Starting Hand Expected Values (EV)

2005-03-30T01:25:00.001-06:00

These statistics are based on 122,031,244 pair of pocket cards dealt in real money tables. The unit for EV is average profit in big bets. Note, these numbers are not adjusted for position or the number of players at the table. In other words, a hand like KQ from early position has a lower EV than the same starting hand from late position and is different again when playing against 9 players or 3 players. I use and recommend a tool called Tournament Indicator which automatically shows the actual EV of each hand adjusted for table position and number of players.


Hand	EV	Hand	EV	Hand	EV
AA	2.32	QJ	0.03	98	-0.1
KK	1.67	QJ s	0.23	98 s	0
QQ	1.22	QT	-0.02	97	-0.1
JJ	0.86	QT s	0.17	97 s	-0.04
TT	0.58	Q9	-0.08	96	-0.12
99	0.38	Q9 s	0.06	96 s	-0.09
88	0.25	Q8	-0.11	95	-0.12
77	0.16	Q8 s	-0.02	95 s	-0.12
66	0.07	Q7	-0.12	94	-0.12
55	0.02	Q7 s	-0.06	94 s	-0.15
44	-0.03	Q6	-0.13	93	-0.12
33	-0.07	Q6 s	-0.08	93 s	-0.14
22	-0.09	Q5	-0.13	92	-0.12
AK	0.51	Q5 s	-0.09	92 s	-0.14
AK s	0.77	Q4	-0.13	87	-0.12
AQ	0.31	Q4 s	-0.1	87 s	-0.02
AQ s	0.59	Q3	-0.13	86	-0.11
AJ	0.19	Q3 s	-0.11	86 s	-0.07
AJ s	0.43	Q2	-0.13	85	-0.11
AT	0.08	Q2 s	-0.12	85 s	-0.11
AT s	0.33	JT	-0.03	84	-0.12
A9	-0.03	JT s	0.15	84 s	-0.13
A9 s	0.18	J9	-0.08	83	-0.12
A8	-0.07	J9 s	0.04	83 s	-0.15
A8 s	0.1	J8	-0.1	82	-0.12
A7	-0.1	J8 s	-0.03	82 s	-0.14
A7 s	0.08	J7	-0.12	76	-0.11
A6	-0.12	J7 s	-0.07	76 s	-0.03
A6 s	0.03	J6	-0.12	75	-0.11
A5	-0.12	J6 s	-0.11	75 s	-0.09
A5 s	0.08	J5	-0.13	74	-0.12
A4	-0.12	J5 s	-0.11	74 s	-0.11
A4 s	0.06	J4	-0.13	73	-0.12
A3	-0.13	J4 s	-0.11	73 s	-0.14
A3 s	0.02	J3	-0.13	72	-0.12
A2	-0.15	J3 s	-0.13	72 s	-0.15
A2 s	0	J2	-0.13	65	-0.12
KQ	0.16	J2 s	-0.14	65 s	-0.07
KQ s	0.39	T9	-0.08	64	-0.12
KJ	0.07	T9 s	0.05	64 s	-0.09
KJ s	0.29	T8	-0.09	63	-0.12
KT	0.01	T8 s	0	63 s	-0.11
KT s	0.2	T7	-0.1	62	-0.12
K9	-0.07	T7 s	-0.05	62 s	-0.14
K9 s	0.09	T6	-0.11	54	-0.13
K8	-0.11	T6 s	-0.11	54 s	-0.08
K8 s	0.01	T5	-0.12	53	-0.12
K7	-0.11	T5 s	-0.12	53 s	-0.11
K7 s	0	T4	-0.12	52	-0.12
K6	-0.12	T4 s	-0.13	52 s	-0.14
K6 s	-0.04	T3	-0.12	43	-0.13
K5	-0.13	T3 s	-0.13	43 s	-0.13
K5 s	-0.05	T2	-0.12	42	-0.12
K4	-0.13	T2 s	-0.14	42 s	-0.14
K4 s	-0.05			32	-0.14
K3	-0.14			32 s	-0.16
K3 s	-0.08
K2	-0.14
K2 s	-0.08

Return to EV and M-Zone Foundation

Thank You!

2001-09-23T08:27:00.000-05:00

Thank you for your donation to SitNGoTraining.com. I hope you will continue to benefit from the lessons presented at this site. Should you have any questions, feel free to contact me.

Return to Course Outline